Hast du das Gefühl das dich die Erfahrungen der Reisen als Mensch verändert haben?
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Tak3r auf Weltreise
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Jo moin, bin auch momentan in Argentinien unterwegs allerdings am anderen Ende in Jujuy der nördlichsten Provinz.. Krasser Respekt wie du das durchziehst, wirst du gar nicht müde vom ganzen Reisen und hast bock auf andere Sachen?
Argentinien und Uruguay gefallen mir Persönlich sehr, für Paraguay kann ich keine Empfehlung abgeben, hat mir nicht so gefallen.
Anosnten weiterhin viel Erfolg und viel Glück!
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Hey! Ja reisen verändert einen Menschen auf jeden Fall - größtenteils auch im Umgang mit personen aus anderen Kulturen. Ich saß oft mal allein am Frühstückstisch mit den Großeltern meiner Couchsurfer mit erheblichen Sprachbarrieren, klappt aber immer irgendwie und das sind schon schöne Erfahrungen.
Paraguay und Uruguay fand ich auch hammer, da war ich ja und die Live updates sind immer noch aus März, hänge etwas hinterher mit dem schreiben leider :)
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Hey, leider nein - da war ich noch nie! :(
Hier der zweite Teil vom letzten Bericht.
Live #68, Paso del Cuadrado, Argentina

20/03/2015 We had an adventurous last night sleeping underneath a huge boulder during heavy snowfall and were now set to make our way towards Paso del Cuadrado in perfect sunny weather, once more correctly predicted by the forecast. Unclear if we could make it to the top of the 1850m high mountain pass, we were in good spirits and eager to explore the more distant hiking regions around El Chaltén.
After checking out the lagoon at Piedras Blanca for sunrise, we packed up our stuff and were blessed with sunshine on our way back to the rocky river valley of Río Blanco. Soon after, the path turned left towards a forest. We were curious of how the situation at the upcoming camp site would be, as they are charging 300 pesos (around 30€) for people just to pass through! Obviously, we didn’t like that and planned to use another path to avoid them. Hugo from the hostel told me about it and said that it’s usually no problem. As we got closer, we passed two signs listing the prices to stay or just pass the camp. For some reason though, we were not able to find the shortcut and ended up walking right through the camp site – no one noticed us and we could pass without paying! Haha.
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>> Rest & Pictures
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Live #69, Mirador de la Loma (plus Los Cóndores & Las Águilas), Argentina

22/03/2015 I’ve had experienced some truly exciting days on the hike to Paso del Cuadrado, but was still not just yet finished in El Chaltén. After some more bouldering and a really amazing Argentinean Asado in the hostel’s garden, I started my last hikes. While doing the first one to Mirador de la Loma and it’s fantastic views on my own, I was once again joined by the two Julias to summit the easy viewpoints of Los Cóndores & Las Águilas, offering less spectacular, but still very nice views on El Chaltén.
Following my typical El Chaltén eating routine, I once again had masses of Dulce de Leche for breakfast and even continued eating it at the point I ran out of bread – I just loved it so much I guess! I also bought the same food again for the last hikes, basically a lot of bread, cheese and salami. This time, I was packed light and only carried some food for the six hour hike to Mirador de la Loma. I left at noon and was hoping to return for football at 15:30. The first part of the trip would lead me to towards Paso del Viento, which was my main goal here in the area but sadly, due to the weather conditions, not possible to do on my own. After about one hour of walking uphill, I left the Paso del Viento path and turned to the right, heading into a forest. The hike until there was pretty boring, but just when I left the forest again, I could finally see Fitz Roy in the Background from a different perspective and was extremely lucky with the weather too.
Not long after, I would head into another forest, constantly hiking uphill. There were a lot of people around here, mainly Asians as they hiked up in a huge group, and I passed all of them on my mission to get back to football. I think I was walking as fast as possible before you would have to define it as running :) Leaving the forest again, I was walking uphill through some scree now, eventually reaching the end of the trail. What I saw when I reached the viewpoint was just amazing – I had a clear view on Fitz Roy, all the valleys, lakes and hiking paths I used before and most importantly: I could see Cerro Torre for the first time! After all those days in El Chaltén, I was so happy to finally see him as well and it was impressive sight. Too bad it’s so hard to climb this thing as it was really tempting.
I decided not to go up to the highest point of the nearby summit, which would take about another half hour extra walking and apparently, the view from there would be kind of the same according to Hugo from the hostel. I spent around one hour at the Mirador though to enjoy the landscape to the fullest before I started to hike back to town. Probably breaking a lot of speed records, I made it back way before the football starts and could enjoy a nice warm shower first. It was actually my last day here in the hostel and I really loved this place, making it a bit hard to leave. If you ever make it to El Chaltén, please check out Hem Heru and say hello to Hugo ;-)
One last hike was still to be completed though and both of the Julias joined me once again for a fun hike to Miradores Los Cóndores & Las Águilas. You can easily combine both of them and do it in about two hours, offering nice views along the vast fields close to the Patagonian ice field. It was super windy up there as well and as usual, the weather was good too. Other than the four-day bad weather window that I used to do some bouldering, I was always lucky down here! As hard as it was, it was now time for me to leave El Chaltén and I wanted to give hitch hiking a try again, just like about the ten other people per day here! It was just very expensive to use the bus here and while I failed to hitch hike from El Calafate to El Chaltén, doing it the opposite way now was much more easier, thanks to the smaller size of El Chaltén. The first car actually picked me up after just a minute of waiting!
The older man worked in El Chaltén and was on the way back home, could not speak any English at all but was a really nice guy in general. We somehow communicated in my broken Spanish and I could finally, on my last day, see the famous view from the road looking back to the Fitz Roy Skyline. I took a quick picture from the car as I didn’t want to ask him to stop and I only had my crap phone camera anyway, but this picture will always remind me of the great landscapes in this part of Patagonia and I’m happy to have it now. My next stop was the famous Perito Moreno Glacier near El Calafate and I will tell you all about that in the following Live Update :-)
>> Pictures
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Live #70, Glacier Perito Moreno, Argentina

23/03/2015 I was finished with all the hikes in El Chaltén, but had one more item on my bucket list near close-by El Calafate: Glacier Perito Moreno, one of the few growing glaciers in Patagonia. I knew it would be super touristy, but everyone I’ve met told me to go there nevertheless and I was not disappointed to do so. It was a perfect sunny day and the temperatures caused a lot of huge ice blocks to fall of the roughly 74m high glacier. You can see one of those video clips in this live update, while the complete video will come in a couple of months.
My bus to Perito Moreno left at 08:30 in the morning, costing 300 Pesos for a roundtrip. Not cheap, but I slowly got used to the prices in Patagonia. I left the bus at 10:00 at the first stop, starting to walk my way up towards the second bus stop, which is located at the Main entrance including a Restaurant and other touristic stuff. I think I don’t have to mention that Perito Moreno is VERY touristic, especially lots of Asian people that I didn’t really see in El Chaltén for instance; guess they are just coming down here to see the glacier. One interesting fact about the glacier is that it is one of the very few growing glaciers, advancing about 2 meters each day! I just wonder how long it will take until they have to built a new viewing platform…
The park offers various hiking trails and you can easily spend four hours here walking all of them and constantly stare at the glacier whenever it bursts off another piece of ice, making some really cool cracking sounds first. It is in fact a very spectacular view, especially looking over the glacier from one of the higher viewpoints. First though, I explored the lower parts and always ran into the same people again. I was always ready with my phone camera and shot tons of movies, hoping to capture a bit of the action live.
I was lucky to do so twice, once in the lower slopes and once in the higher ones (see the video above). It was pretty impressive to see those nearly 80m high Icebergs falling off and a complete different experience to my trip in Greenland and the Eqi Glacier, which you can check out here. Perito Moreno was smaller, but had much more action and it was constantly cracking down somewhere. You are also able to get much closer and I was especially lucky with the relatively hot weather.
I finished the upper and lower walks and then walked towards the end to see the glacier from a different perspective. I found myself a bit further away from the glacier then and could not see so much action anymore. It was still nice to see everything from this angle with the surrounding mountains on both sides. Heading back up, I was waiting for one more major “breakdown” of an iceberg with a nice motive of all the people staring at the lower slopes, but sadly nothing happened. I now spent over four hours here and it was time to head back towards the Restaurant, where the bus would pick me up again at 14:30 and drive me back to El Calafate. Next up was my flight to Ushuaia, followed by my long awaited cruise to Antarctica to see even more ice bergs :)
>> Pictures
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Video from Colombia

Time for the next video! This one is packed with interesting stuff: Starting with some diving in Capurganá, followed by the towns of Cartagena, Santa Marta & Minca, onwards to the amazingly beautiful beaches in Tayrona National Park, a quick ride to yet another beach at Palomino, climaxing with the trek to Lost City Ciduad Perdida before finishing it off in Bogotá & Villa de Leyva!
Check out the Live Updates and Pictures from Colombia here.
>> Direct Vimeo Link
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Live #71, Ushuaia and Drake Passage, Antarctica

25/03/2015 After a bit more than two weeks in El Chaltén and El Calafate, it was now finally time to leave Ushuaia and begin my voyage to the coldest, driest and windiest continent of our planet: Antarctica. Not too many people have the opportunity to go there and I felt very privileged to be one of them. Together with around 80 other passengers, we would take two full days to cross the rough waters of the Drake Passage before we would be able to set foot on Antarctica, probably one of the most impressive places that we can visit.
Traveling through Patagonia without a proper camera was pretty tough for me, but at least I would have a replacement of my broken Sony A6000 for the trip to Antarctica! It involved a lot of trust and research, but it all worked out luckily. I basically sent 500€ to a strange Couchsurfer through PayPal, who would buy a Sony A3000 in the duty free shop in Chile, then give the camera to a friend to take it on a 3-day boat trip to Ushuaia before finally handing it over to my Couchsurfer there. Everyone involved was really nice and I was so happy to finally have a proper camera in my hand again, even though it was not as good and not nearly as fast as my old one, but certainly much much better than my phone camera!
I had half a day to enjoy Ushuaia, the most southern town of Argentina and South America. Feeling unwell from some old Spaghetti Bolognese leftovers at the airport, I was forced to head back from my Photo-walk around town rather soon in order to relax and recover at my Couchsurfers place. My host was not around at the time, but I still had great company by her 50 day old little kitty :) It never felt better to just lay down, doing nothing other than playing with the absolutely adorable small baby cat. Eventually though, it was time to pack up and get ready! I booked my trip to Antarctica with the company Antarpply Expeditions and paid 5.000$ for a standard double room. Now it seems that the price actually increased to nearly 6.000$ just a year later.
Walking to the harbour at 15:30, it was very easy to spot my ship that would take me to Antarctica: The MV Ushuaia, an 85m long, ice-strengthened polar vessel with a maximum capacity of 84 tourists. A great size, because only 100 people are allowed to enter the continent at the same time and heading there with a bigger ship of 200 or even more would mean that not everyone could do a zodiac landing at the same time. I inspected my cabin, which was really nice for the fact that I paid for the cheapest possible option, sharing it with a funny guy from Taiwan. We also had our private bathroom! Heading back to the main room, I was still feeling pretty bad in my stomach and had to skip the great looking welcome appetisers. I really hoped to get well soon again to make full use of all the provided meals!
A safety check was mandatory to get used to our life jackets and we were shown some videos about what to expect in the following two days, crossing the famous Drake Passage. It is known as one of the roughest seas on the planet and the waves here can reach over 30m! (Check out some videos on YouTube, like this one on the same ship actually). A lot of people were worried about getting sea sick and started to take precautions. I was more excited to see some big waves, hopefully being able to capture it on video for you guys. Sadly though, it never happened and for the complete next two days on our Drake crossing, we only had some small waves and super calm conditions in general, smoothly crossing over the Drake Lake as it is called in that case. So I got no cool wave videos for you sadly! Playing chess was still pretty though and we constantly had to take pictures of the board, because it would eventually be flipped over by the movement of the ship. I actually installed the Settlers II as well, a really really old game to play in order to pass the time.
Another great way to pass the time was eating the breakfast, lunch and dinner. All of which were of excellent quality and quantity. It felt like eating in a nice restaurant and whenever I asked for some more, I got it. Adding a great taste to it made me feel like in heaven, putting on all the weight again that I previously lost in my treks in Patagonia :) The crew also presented a lot of lectures in the main room, either connected to the Antarctica as a continent itself, or to the story of the first pioneers discovering it. Really interesting and impressive stories, you should do some reading about Ernest Shackleton and all the other great people that dedicated their lifes to explore the unknown land in the south.
After days of staring at the open ocean, we finally spotted the first ice berg at 11:30 on the third day, meaning that we would be pretty close to the continent now. Weather wise, we were faced with a lot of grey and rain while crossing the calm Drake, but now it actually started to clear up and the sun came up a little bit in the afternoon, enabling us to finally see the continent in the distance! It was a great feeling, even though we were just tourists and not explorers. It is hard to imagine how they must have felt during the conditions of the 18th and 19th centuries. Now that we got closer to the land, we also felt how cold it became. With winds up to 200km/h – even stronger than those in Patagonia – the cold air felt colder than it actually was. Standing outside the deck to take pictures turned into a challenge, but most of us passengers would still do it. Nobody expected it to be warm down here anyway! After sunset, it was time for dinner again and get some more sleep. My room mate kept me awake in the last nights for various reasons, but at least I slowly felt better now and was able to eat more. Just in time for the next morning, when we would finally have our first full day in Antarctica…
>> Pictures
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